Western States Endurance Run - June 24, 2023

Running Western States two years in a row is a pretty rare event, mostly experienced by elite athletes. I had the good fortune of not only getting my lottery ticket picked for 2022, but on the same day, I was selected in the raffle for 2023. I was originally not sure that I would run both years; however, after last year’s run didn’t go to plan, I found myself wanting to return.

While I did not meet all my goals for the run this year, I am as or more proud of this effort than any other 100 miler. My body didn’t quite do what I wanted, but my mind kept me in the fight the whole way from Olympic Valley to the Placer High track. I was able to draw on the unwavering support from Jamie, William, and Emma and the wisdom from my coach Stephanie. And, I’m not sure I would have made it without my amazing pacer Crispin and crew Julia and Wrede. They executed their roles to perfection.

My training this year was good. While I continually dealt with minor discomforts in my hips and had some form of physical therapy or body work nearly every week of March through June to keep functioning, I did all my planned workouts and completed all of my long runs. I came into the race feeling better prepared than last year in all aspects: overall fitness, heat adaptation, course knowledge, mental stress. The weather forecast for this year was also nothing short of amazing: high temperatures were predicted to be in the low 80s. The two new challenges for this year would be snow in the high country and additional exposure caused by the Mosquito Fire in September 2022, which burned 16 miles of the course. I went into the run optimistic that I could get the highly coveted sub-24-hour silver buckle.

The Run

I left my hotel room for the start at 4:50 am. I achieved about 3 hours of sleep while in bed for 8 hours, which was about two hours more than last year. Not wanting to chance an elevator delay, I took the stairs and walked into the lobby to see Crispin, who would pace me from Foresthill (mile 62), and Julia and Wrede, who would crew me beginning at Robinson Flat (mile 30.3). We all walked to the start and arrived with about 5 minutes on the clock. I said goodbye and headed into the throng of runners lined up.

When the clock hit 00:00:00, the shotgun was fired (I heard it this year!), and we were off. The course was rerouted slightly at the beginning to accommodate some work happening on a ski lift, which made for a bit more running initially before settling in to the long hike up the Escarpment. About halfway up we encountered our first snow, but it wasn’t too challenging. Overall, there was some slippage, but I arrived at the top only a minute slower than last year.

The first part of single track in the high country after the Escarpment was clear of snow, but this didn’t last long. The next several miles included lots of water and firm and also slippery snow. There were several spots that yielded to glissading, sometimes controlled, sometimes not. I felt the effects of altitude here and the added effort of keeping my balance wore on me quite a bit. I had hoped to cover this section much faster than I did last year, but I could tell that this plan was not panning out. Moreover, I was feeling pretty tired, and as I arrived at the Lyon Ridge aid station (mile 10.3) two minutes slower than last year, I began to think that my goals for the day needed adjusting.

There was less snow on the way to Red Star Ridge (mile 15.8), although there was one section in which the race positioned a volunteer to advise runners not to pass, less they slip and slide a very long way off course. I got pretty emotional during this section as I realized the long day ahead of me with my body not quite responding like I had planned. Little was feeling right, and I knew that I needed to settle myself down if I wanted to finish this run. I started to calm a bit as we got to Cougar Rock and felt like I might be finding a manageable but productive effort.

At Red Star, I got in and out quickly and focused on a smooth efficient descent to Duncan Canyon.The miles to Duncan Canyon began to feel better. I moved easily and smoothly for the most part.

There was one final silly bit of snow that required a little climb, a ginger trot across, and then a glissade. I arrived to Duncan (mile 24.4) feeling calmer and happy to be heading to Robinson Flat, where I would see my crew. I declined ice and a hose down on the way out as the day just wasn’t that hot. I didn’t know it at the time, but this would be my fastest section of the run.

I really enjoyed the section to Robinson Flat last year, but this year, I just didn’t feel right. I was running and felt that my effort was correct but the pace just seemed slow. I kept my feet dry until the crossing of Duncan Creek, which required holding onto a rope as the water was hip high. The water was cold but felt somewhat refreshing. As I began the climb up to Robinson, I was unhappy with my pace relative to my effort. I remembered feeling great on this section last year and that recollection compounded my frustration. I had consumed all the calories planned on schedule and simply couldn’t figure out what was happening. I can’t deny that the thought of pulling the plug at Robinson and driving home that night crossed my mind.

I arrived at Robinson Flat (mile 30.3) an hour and forty minutes behind my goal pace and twenty minutes slower than last year. I saw Julia on my way into the aid station and found her and Wrede shortly past the food tables. We had planned for a sock change given the creek crossing, and I sank into the chair to get to the task. Julia and Wrede had everything laid out perfectly and helped me get through the change quickly.

They were super positive despite me vacillating between stoicism and marked distress, exactly what you need your crew to do. I got my nutrition for the next section and unloaded the unnecessary items from my pack. My feet were in good shape. I headed out thankful that I knew the rest of the course much better than the part I had just covered but also with a sense of foreboding of the challenge that lay ahead.

Hiking out of Robinson and then running down towards Miller’s Defeat (mile 34.4) felt ok but not great. I started to feel more normal on the way to Dusty Corners (mile 38) and then felt reasonably good on to Last Chance (mile 43.3). I enjoyed Pucker Point more than last year, perhaps because the temperatures were super tolerable. My lower back was pretty sore but otherwise everything was going ok. I finally peed during this section for the first time, which suggested I wasn’t quite as hydrated as I should have been. I was still a bit frustrated with my pace, particularly as I was not able to pass people who were mixing hiking and running, despite running continuously. I was starting to sour on my sweet nutrition and found that goldfish crackers at the aid stations were a good antidote. I downed a cup of electrolyte fluid at every aid station but probably still didn’t get in enough water.

I made the descent to Swinging Bridge relatively smoothly. It felt slower than I would have liked, particularly as it simply was not hot. I had minimal ice on my neck as I headed up the Devil’s Thumb climb, and I didn’t stop to soak in the grotto just before the climb. On the way up after 9 or so of the 36 switchbacks, I passed a runner who decided that I would be a good pacer for them. They proceeded to stick with me breathing super heavily the whole way up, periodically thanking me for leading them up and apologizing for being ‘on my butt’. I find this kind of behavior super annoying normally and felt that even more so on this day. I said little and tried to stay focused. The runner thought that showing me the “devil’s thumb” rock at the top would somehow redeem their behavior, but I indicated that I knew what it was. The runner was surprised by this, and they were fairly quiet after that. We fortunately departed at the top, and I did not see that person the rest of the day.

When I arrived at the aid station, I got super chilly, which was weird because I’d just climbed 1,750 feet in less than two miles and had minimal ice on me. I was totally tired of my sweet nutrition and grabbed a bunch of goldfish crackers. The chill meant something wasn’t quite right with my nutrition/hydration. There was hot broth, which seemed odd at this aid station as it is normally one of the hottest sections of the course, but it was the perfect thing for me. I grabbed a cup of broth and hiked out of the aid station with it warming me.

I took my time before picking up the pace to get to El Dorado Creek (mile 52.9). This section passed through one of the most noticeably burned parts of the course, and I had been dreading it. However, the warmth from the exposure on the descent to El Dorado, which would turn out to be the warmest part of the course for me as registered by my watch, actually felt quite good. I still was not moving as well as I would have liked but was happy to cross over the halfway point. I noted that I was now more than an hour behind last year’s pace, and I began to wonder if I would be able to make that up in the second half for salvaging at least a personal record for the run.

I was through El Dorado quickly and began the second 1,750 foot canyon climb up to Michigan Bluff. I realized that when I got to the aid station, I would need to pick up my waistlamp from my crew as civil twilight would be long gone before I reached the next aid. This climb went better than the previous, and not just because I didn’t have an unwanted trailer.

I got into Michigan Bluff knowing that I needed more salty foods. I would wait to change my socks as the next little canyon required a creek crossing that would get my feet wet. I did change my shirt as I was again feeling a bit cold, and I got my waist lamp. I got a chicken quesadilla and some broth for the road and hiked out of town with Julia joining until I turned off on Gorman Ranch Road to head towards Foresthill.

The little section to Foresthill felt longer than normal. I was tired and the setting sun was not helping. I kept my waist lamp off until it was absolutely necessary and shared the descent into Volcano Canyon with a guy from Mill Valley I had met during the training camp weekend. This descent and the climb up to Bath Road were made more enjoyable by this company as well as a few other runners and their pacers. Pacers are allowed at Michigan Bluff if you leave after 8pm. I had left at about 7:50p but a few people had caught up to me with their pacers. I actually didn’t mind this as these folks made for some good conversation. About halfway on the climb up Bath Road, Crispin found me. Crews are allowed to come down the paved section of the road, and he had come down to meet me given the day I was having. He was a more than welcome sight. We hiked up the last section of the climb together and then jogged the half mile or so to the big Foresthill aid station. He would pace me the rest of the way from here. I got him up to speed on what was going on so that we could figure out how to deal with the challenges.

At Foresthill, I saw Joanna Gadd, a friend from running days in SF who has come to spectate Western States the last couple of years. It’s always nice to see a friendly face, and she was another welcome sight. Crispin and I had been discussing my stomach challenges, and he made sure that I stocked up on salty snacks at the aid station.

This stop was longer than I would have liked, but it was important. I changed into a long sleeve shirt and got a fresh buff. I changed my socks and changed my shoes (same model, different copy) before Crispin and I headed down Main Street in Foresthill. Julia and Wrede continued to be an efficient crewing machine, and I left Foresthill feeling that I just might be able to get these last 38 miles done.

This year’s course deviated from the normal route because of a dispute with a family that owns the land that the trail traverses from California Street in Foresthill. So, instead of heading down Cal Street, we ran along Foresthill Road past Worton’s market and then turned left to head down to the normal Cal Street section. This downhill was pretty steep, and I was struggling on downhills at this point. I think this was mostly because I had cooled down quite a bit between the long stop and the drop in temperatures that came with nightfall. We weren’t particularly fast, but we were steady.

At each of the stops on Cal Street (Dardanelles, mile 65.7; Peachstone mile 70.7; Ford’s Bar, mile 73), Crispin made me take some sort of sugary drink (flattened Ginger ale, then flattened Coke) and eat some real savory foot (mostly quesadillas). I also drank a lot of water, and after peeing only twice in the first 16 hours, I began to get back on top of hydration and nutrition. But wow did my stomach feel stretched at many points. This section was steady and not too eventful. My running pace was pretty slow and at times, hiking was simply faster. We did the uphills best, with 6-minute hill actually only taking a little under 8 minutes. We cruised to the river and saw Julia and Wrede once again. I was feeling a little better at this point as Rucky Chucky (mile 78) feels like a really strong milestone. I don’t think I exchanged much with the crew and didn’t take any of my planned nutrition. I was relying exclusively on aid station fare at this point, stuffing it in my shorts pockets, and that was working.

To cross the river this year, the race provided boats rowed by expert rafting guides. Because of this year’s snowfall, the river was flowing at more than 10x the normal volume and was not passable on foot. The boat ride was glorious; fast and way warmer! We spent little time on the other side of the river and began the 750 ft hike up to Green Gate (mile 78.9). At the top of the climb, we got more savory food to round out what I needed for the trip to Auburn Lakes Trails (mile 85.7).

The section from Auburn Lakes trails was hard. I was still moving but had slowed a bit more. My waist lamp was being finicking, which turned out to just be a loose attachment, but we stopped multiple times to troubleshoot. We reached the aid station and got a bit more food before heading for Quarry Road (mile 90.3). The sun was now rising and this provided a boost in my stride. We got a little comic relief from a male runner who decided to drop trou right on the side of the single track. He was very apologetic and clearly embarrassed. His pacer was not helping him. Last year, this was the section in which my feet really started to come apart. It was nice not to feel that way this year, and while I really wanted to be done by this point, it went by faster than I expected.

At Quarry Road, we stopped briefly to chat with Hal Koerner and Scott Jurek. They were both super encouraging and amiable enough to pose for a photo with a sweaty, smelly runner with an avocado rice ball stuffed in each cheek.

We headed next to Pointed Rocks (mile 94.3). We moved reasonably well on Quarry Road before turning uphill.

On the way up to Pointed Rocks before the Highway 49 crossing, we came across a runner who was sitting on the side of the trail with her pacer. She looked to be in rough shape so Crispin ran ahead to the volunteer at the highway crossing to see if they could send help. The runner would be ok and would eventually finish. I met up with Crispin at the highway crossing and we continued up to Pointed Rocks.

At Pointed Rocks, I could tell that the section of from No Hands bridge to the climb up to Robie Point might get a little hot so I decided on one more shirt change. I got back into the shirt I started the race in, which Julia and Wrede had managed to wash by this point! I grabbed some final fuel as I still had close to two hours to go.

We said goodbye to the crew one last time and headed down the trail to No Hands bridge. I had stiffened up at that stop and was not moving downhill well. It was not as bad as last year with wrecked feet, but it wasn’t fast. Nevertheless, I actually felt excited to see No Hands Bridge this year, and as we got close, my mood definitely lifted.

In contrast to last year, I ran across No Hands and was very happy to be doing so.

We made our way to the climb to Robie Point, encountering Dylan Bowman and Tim Twietmeyer along the way. The climb up to Robie felt tough but Julia met us at the top, along with a ton of people who had come out to support runners.

The crowd at mile 99 was glorious, and so loud. It’s really amazing to have all of those people cheering for just you in a moment. It’s not a common experience for most of us, and I soaked it in. Just before reaching the final climb I noticed Maggie Tides and her family on the side of the road cheering. I have several of her prints, my favorite being the triptych she created to commemorate the race, and so I said hello as we passed.

At this point we were joined by Aude and Ryan, friends who had been at the Escarpment the day before and joined for the last mile. I wasn’t moving all that well downhill yet, but after crossing the white bridge and then catching a glimpse of the track I finally was able to get past the pain and move faster.

We hit the track at a good clip and I accelerated down the backstretch. I so wanted to be done, but it also felt so good to have my body work. Joaquin, an old running friend and work colleague joined us briefly and that gave me a further boost. I kept accelerating around the turn and then slowed on the homestretch to take in that final 100 meters. The crowd is much bigger when you get close to the golden hour (hour 29), and it was another moment to soak in all those folks cheering. I crossed the finished line 28 hours and 50 minutes after beginning the journey in Olympic Valley. I was fully spent.

Post run

As I finish writing this four days after finishing the run, I am just beginning to feel like a normal human being again. I battled a fever the day after the run and have felt a general malaise in the subsequent days with low appetite and trouble sleeping. I’m not sure where I will go next with running; at the moment there is not much interest, but I’ve been doing this long enough to know that that will fade. I can confidently assert that I will not be running Western States next year but beyond that, it is hard to tell. I do know that I will cherish this finish for a long time to come.